You’ve worked hard and put a beautiful quilt top together. Now you have to finish it. Don’t let your quilt top become an unfinished project. I can professionally quilt your top and give you a finished quilt that is ready to showcase as a wall hanging, bed quilt, or special gift.
I have hundreds of quilting patterns and pantographs you can choose from. Select the pattern or patterns you would like on your quilt or allow me to use my judgment and finish the quilt for you. Either way, I am confident you will be pleased with the final results.
Machine quilting is charged on a per square inch (PSI) basis based on the total number of square inches in the finished quilt top. Prices range from $0.015 (one and a half cents) to $0.075 (seven and a half cents) PSI depending on complexity of design and customization.
All over free-motion quilting (meander stitch) is $0.015 PSI;Light pantograph, edge-to-edge designs are $0.025 PSI;Medium heavy pantograph edge-to-edge designs are $0.04 PSI
Custom work for borders and individual areas with an all over design in the center of the quilt is $0.055 PSI; Custom block work, templates, and heavy pantograph work is $0.075 PSI
Preparation of the quilt top prior to long-arm machine quilting.
- Keep all layers (top, batting, and backing) separate. Mark the top of your quilt with a large safety pin or pin a slip of paper to the top of the quilt. Many quilt designs have a “right side up”. Knowing which is the top of your quilt will ensure you get the result you desire.
- Press the entire quilt top very well. I cannot emphasize this enough! Press seams flat from the back of the quilt and then press then entire quilt again from the top (front) of the quilt to eliminate any creases or little folds between seams. Long arm machine quilting will NOT eliminate pleates, puckers, and uneven seams.
- Stay stitch 3/8” from the edge of your quilt on all four sides to secure pieced work. This stitching can later be removed after the binding has been attached.
- Check seams on the underside of your quilt to make sure your seam allowances are sufficient. The hopping foot on the long arm machine can go through unfinished seams and leave a tear in your quilt.
- Do not attach embellishments, such as buttons, sequins, beads, charms, etc. to your quilt top. These should be added AFTER the quilting is finished.
- You can supply your own batting with your quilt top and backing or you may purchase batting from me. I have several options available in sizes to meet any quilting need.
- If you supply your own batting, be advised that I do not accept pieced batting as it tends to pull apart when rolled onto the rollers of the long arm quilting frame. If your batting requires pre-soaking (see package directions on your batting), this must be done prior to sending your quilt to me. I don't pre-soak your batting.
- Your batting should measure at least 3” to 4” wider/longer on each side than your quilt top -- that is 6" to 8" larger than your finished quilt top dimensions.
If you don't already have your batting, I carry the following battings which are available for purchase:
* 100% needle punched polyester battings w/o scrim in various weights from 1/2" low loft batting (120" wide) to 2" high loft comfort batting (48" wide).
* Warm and Natural 100% cotton batting (90" wide)
* Warm and White 100% cotton batting (90" wide)
* Warm Bond - 80% cotton, 20% polyester, 1/4" low-loft batting (90" wide)
* Warm Blend - 50% cotton, 50% polyester (110" wide)
* Luxury 100% cotton batting in white or natural (very similar and comparable to Warm and Natural or Warm and White) (96" wide)
- Backings should be made of 100% cotton or high quality muslin. Stretch fabric is NOT suitable as quilt backing. Sheets do not make good backings because they often have mixed fiber content and can cause skipped stitches and needle breakage. If you send a 100% cotton or cotton flannel sheet as your backing, the hems and selvage edges must be removed and the backing must be squared up. I cannot guarantee quality results using a sheet as backing fabric, but I will do all I can to ensure the best results possible.
- Backings should measure at least 10” to 12” longer and wider than your quilt top. That is 5” to 6” longer and wider than each side of your quilt. This is necessary to allow the quilting clamps to securely hold your quilt top and not run interference with the long arm quilting machine. If your backing is not sufficiently wider than your quilt top, I can add fabric runners on the sides of your quilt to allow smooth long-arm machine operation. There is a $5.00 charge for this service. If your quilt is not long enough for your quilt top, that is something that I cannot fix. Please make sure your quilt backing is at least 10 inches longer than your quilt top.
- If the backing is pieced, selvage edges should be removed prior to seaming.Seams should be pressed open and flat before sending to me. If you do not want a pieced quilt back, I offer wide width fabric (108”) in a variety of blender shades (muted tone on tone in blues, greens, reds, yellows, purples….) and a few prints. Send me an email if you would like to see pictures of the fabrics I carry in this line.
- All of the thread that I use is the highest quality designed especially for high-speed long arm quilting machines. It is kept in a controlled environment to protect against premature aging and breakage. Consequently I do not accept thread from outside sources. There is a $5.00 thread charge per quilt for all quilts larger than 60” x 70”. There is a $3.00 thread charge per quilt for small quilts. If you want to use a specialty thread such as King Tut, Bottom Line, etc., the thread is charged at the rate of $0.85 per bobbin and the final thread cost will be calculated when the quilting has been completed. A general rule of thumb is one bobbin per 10 vertical inches of your quilt top for light quilting and two bobbins if there is heavy quilting.
- The best thread combination is to use the same thread color on top and in the bobbin. If your backing is dark you want a light colored thread on the top, it will create a pattern of dots on the back of your quilt which can be very pretty or disconcerting. Your choice of batting can also affect the visibility of the top thread on the quilt back. The thicker the batting, the less the stitch shows through on the back.
- Binding rates are charged on a per linear foot (PLF) basis based on the size of your finished quilt top. All sides are measured in inches and divided by 12 to come up with the total linear feet of binding. Fractions are charged at the rate of one linear foot.
- Attach by machine to front of quilt $1.50 PLF;Attach by machine to back of quilt using a stitch in the ditch method is $2.00 PLF; Attach by hand with a blind stitch to back of quilt $3.50 PLF.